Local Climbing & Access Issues

Crag Maintenance

Steps at Scugdale

Thanks to all who turned out on a drizzly October morning to do some path maintenance at Scugdale.

About a dozen people cleared existing steps and drains, built three new drains (works of engineering excellence) and twenty-one steps!

Work only stopped when we ran out of wood, prompting migration to the pub for a well-earned refreshment.

Materials for steps were provided by North York Moors National Park Authority.

Please look out for the next maintenance meet, on 19th April.

Arran & Lucy Tulloch

Access Issues on Local Crags

Dogs

Dogs are not allowed on most Open Access Land on the North York Moors to protect ground nesting birds & prevent the spread of disease. They are allowed on Public Rights of Way but must be kept under control which is generally interpreted as being on a lead.

Please comply with this restriction as the majority of the crags that we climb on are on the new Access Land & if climbers are found to be ignoring it English Nature could apply for a permanent restriction preventing us climbing on the crags.

Disposable barbeques

Several climbers have been found using them at crags. They are not allowed on Open Access Land and their use could prejudice future access.

Current access problems

The BMC Regional Access Database is probably most up-to-date source of information on access problems.

The Access Maps on the Countryside Access site have details of the short term closures of access land for shooting or farming reasons but the site is slow and difficult to navigate.

Crag Hill between Bowes and Cotherstone
Access to this crag has been extended for a further 12 month period subject to the same conditions as before:

• No climbing between January & April inclusive [lambing period]
• No groups under instruction
• Do not phone the farmer
• Remove all litter
• No dogs.

Access only via bridleway at GR993162 & then through gate with sign on in new fence.

The previous year's access has been extended because there were no incidents of concern to the farmer however he still wishes to review the access agreement every year.

Peak Scar
The Estate have agreed to fell the trees below the crag between Moanin' and Astronaut, cutting them into five foot lengths.

Club members will have to clear them to form a path. The Estate have also asked the club to carry some up to the road.

A working party will be held after the felling is complete. Please contact Arran Tulloch if you are able to help.

Scugdale
More steps need to be put into the eroded path path. Again Arran Tulloch will be coordinating this.

Holwick Scar
The leaflet dispenser has been moved from the footpath to below the crag as the Crag Guidance Leaflets have been disappearing in great numbers. It is imperative to follow the guidance on access to this sensitive site.

Round Crag
The Estate now accepts that we are entitled to climb on this crag. Any problems with gamekeepers etc. should be reported to the North Yorks National Park.

Whitestone Cliff
There is now no restriction for climbing at Whitestonecliffe. However if a peregrine or other important bird settles on nesting on the cliff one year this information will be placed on the websites and climbers asked to avoid disturbing any nesting birds. It is an offence to recklessly or deliberately disturb scheduled plants and birds such as a peregrine. It should be noted that the cliff is on a nature reserve

Tranmire
Please do not park cars on the mown verge near Bilsdale Hall. This has caused access problems in the past. Please park near the church where there is normally plenty of parking except on Sundays

Guidebook

The North East England Guidebook covers the North York Moors, East Pennines and Tyne Tees area and has been produced jointly by the club and Smartboys Publishing. It is available from local climbing shops or direct from Smartboys Publishing at a price of £17.95.

Stop Press

This guidebook will soon be out of print. Grab one if you find it and need it.