Local Climbing & Access Issues

Crag Maintenance

Peak Scar Clearance Work

A group of about 20 members of the Cleveland Mountaineering Club and York Alpine Club worked hard on a cold sunny Saturday afternoon to clear peak scar of the logs felled by the Hawnby Estate. The job consisted of a strong man/woman competition, not sure who won, followed by a log-roll down the hill.

There was a great team sprit on the day and we were kept entertained by a bit of aerial tree surgery from Chris. Thankfully the log-roll did not end the day early and we were all kept going by the tea and biscuits provided out of Pauline’s van. The work party continued until we finally had to retreat to the Inn at Hawnby because of poor light.

The Hawnby Estate wrote to thank everyone for their work at Peak Scar.

“From a forestry prospective, the site could not be more inaccessible or difficult and whilst the Estate woodmen were able to fell a reasonable amount of Sycamore close to the crag, we did not feel it was possible to transport the timber lengths to the roadside.

We were very grateful and pleased to see that your work party managed to achieve this in what must have been an arduous day of man handling heavy logs down slippery bank sides! Please accept our thanks for this and the Estate looks forward to the possibility of conducting further crag maintenance works in Peak Scar in future years.”

Arran Tulloch

Steps at Scugdale

Thanks to all who turned out on a drizzly October morning to do some path maintenance at Scugdale.

About a dozen people cleared existing steps and drains, built three new drains (works of engineering excellence) and twenty-one steps!

Work only stopped when we ran out of wood, prompting migration to the pub for a well-earned refreshment.

Materials for steps were provided by North York Moors National Park Authority.

Please look out for the next maintenance meet, on 19th April.

Arran & Lucy Tulloch

Club Access Officer's Report for 2008

Crag Hill near Bowes – At the annual review the farmer agreed to allow climbing for a further year. No climbing in the lambing season between January & April. No dogs at any time.

Danby Crag – Following a meeting requested by the Estate it has been agreed that there will be no climbing between 1^st November & 31^st May due to bird breeding, nesting & hatching. At other times before each visit or at the time of organizing a programme contact Peter Snaith [tel: 01287 660224, email p.snaith@dawnay.co.uk] to check that there will not be any shooting taking place. Access via the public footpath near Head House Farm. If there are more than 3 cars park just inside the gate on the track to the farm.

Downholme Quarry in Swaledale – 6 weeks advanced booking still applies but it appears that you can get away with just turning up in the evening. [Used by military during the day].

Holwick Scar – We have not been called to an annual review therefore it would appear that there are not any problems.

Peak Scar – The landowner has felled a large number of trees at our request. Arran Tulloch organized a successful working party to remove half of them to the track below the crag so that the Estate could collect them to sell to cover the cost of the felling.

Thorny Bank Hill Quarry, Redmire – At a national meeting between the BMC & Tarmac they stated that they would not allow any climbing on live quarries even though they are  working a mile away from the area where we wish to climb – Health & Safety!

Slipstones - Climbers have been taking dogs to the crag even though there are notices banning dogs & this information is on the BMC Regional Access Database website. This could lead to a people ban which has happened in the North Pennines.

Pete Hay

General Access Issues on Local Crags

Dogs

Dogs are not allowed on most Open Access Land on the North York Moors to protect ground nesting birds & prevent the spread of disease. They are allowed on Public Rights of Way but must be kept under control which is generally interpreted as being on a lead.

Please comply with this restriction as the majority of the crags that we climb on are on the new Access Land & if climbers are found to be ignoring it English Nature could apply for a permanent restriction preventing us climbing on the crags.

Disposable barbeques

Several climbers have been found using them at crags. They are not allowed on Open Access Land and their use could prejudice future access.

Current access problems

The BMC Regional Access Database is probably most up-to-date source of information on access problems.

The Access Maps on the Countryside Access site have details of the short term closures of access land for shooting or farming reasons but the site is slow and difficult to navigate.

Crag Hill between Bowes and Cotherstone
Access to this crag has been extended for a further 12 month period subject to the same conditions as before:

• No climbing between January & April inclusive [lambing period]
• No groups under instruction
• Do not phone the farmer
• Remove all litter
• No dogs.

Access only via bridleway at GR993162 & then through gate with sign on in new fence.

The previous year's access has been extended because there were no incidents of concern to the farmer however he still wishes to review the access agreement every year.

Peak Scar
The Estate have agreed to fell the trees below the crag between Moanin' and Astronaut, cutting them into five foot lengths.

Club members will have to clear them to form a path. The Estate have also asked the club to carry some up to the road.

A working party will be held after the felling is complete. Please contact Arran Tulloch if you are able to help.

Scugdale
More steps need to be put into the eroded path path. Again Arran Tulloch will be coordinating this.

Holwick Scar
The leaflet dispenser has been moved from the footpath to below the crag as the Crag Guidance Leaflets have been disappearing in great numbers. It is imperative to follow the guidance on access to this sensitive site.

Round Crag
The Estate now accepts that we are entitled to climb on this crag. Any problems with gamekeepers etc. should be reported to the North Yorks National Park.

Whitestone Cliff
There is now no restriction for climbing at Whitestonecliffe. However if a peregrine or other important bird settles on nesting on the cliff one year this information will be placed on the websites and climbers asked to avoid disturbing any nesting birds. It is an offence to recklessly or deliberately disturb scheduled plants and birds such as a peregrine. It should be noted that the cliff is on a nature reserve

Tranmire
Please do not park cars on the mown verge near Bilsdale Hall. This has caused access problems in the past. Please park near the church where there is normally plenty of parking except on Sundays

Guidebook

The North East England Guidebook covers the North York Moors, East Pennines and Tyne Tees area and has been produced jointly by the club and Smartboys Publishing. It is available from local climbing shops or direct from Smartboys Publishing at a price of £17.95 — the last few copies are available from the Secretary for the bargain price of £12.95.

Stop Press

This guidebook will soon be out of print. Grab one if you find it and need it.